Tuesday, December 1, 2009


SANTERÍA GRAND SLAM: AFRO-CUBAN RELIGIOUS STUDIES AND THE STUDY OF AFRO-CUBAN RELIGION.

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Review by Stephan D. Palmié, Associate Professor of Anthropology, University of Chicago.

This review appeared in redacted form in New West Indian Guide, Vol 79, No 3&4 (2005) under the same title.

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Michael A. Mason. Living Santería: Rituals and Experiences in an Afro-Cuban Religion. Washington, D.C.: Smithsonian Institution, 2002.

Katherine J. Hagedorn. Divine Utterances: The Performance of Afro-Cuban Santería. Washington D.C.: Smithsonian Institution, 2001.

David H. Brown. The Light Inside: Abakuá Society Arts and Cuban Cultural History. Washington, D.C.: Smithsonian Institution, 2003.

David H. Brown. Santería Enthroned: Art, Ritual, and Innovation in an Afro-Cuban Religion. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press, 2003.



Ethnographic objects behave in curious ways. Although they clearly are “our constructions”, field sites, and even topically circumscribed (rather than spatially delimited) ethnographic problems lead double-lives: places and problems change not merely because they change in fact, but because researchers come to them from historically no less changing epistemic vantage points. One can imagine generational cohorts of ethnographers marching across the same geographically or thematically defined terrain and seeing different things – not just because of substantial changes that have factually occurred, but because they have come to ask different questions. The process obviously has its dialectical moments. The figures we inscribe from fleeting observations (based on changing theoretical conceptions), are no less subject to history than the empirical grounds from which our discursive efforts call them forth. The result is a curious imbrication of partially autonomous, but also partly overlapping historicities of lives and texts which, at times, are more difficult to keep apart than it would seem at first glance. At least in the study of Afro-Cuban religious culture, the two practical and discursive fields – one circumscribed by the handy, but perhaps somewhat misleading label “Afro-Cuban religion” , and the other designated by whatever term one might like to affix to its study – cannot be held in easy separation: much as in the Brazilian case (Braga 1995, Capone 1999, Matory 1999, 2001), practitioners of Afro-Cuban religions and their ethnographers have engaged each other in a dialogue since at least the second decade of the twentieth century. That it took us so long to understand this has much to do with the way both “Afro-Cuban religion” and “Afro-Cuban ethnography” originally (and lastingly) became discursively objectified: the former largely under the sign of a search for “authentically African” elements in New World cultural practices, the second as an instrument for “verifying” (and thereby authorizing) such “Africanisms” (Scott 1991).

When the authors of the books under review here (as well as the author of this review) began their research on Afro-Cuban religions in the mid to late 1980s, this was still one of the reigning agendas in the anthropology of Caribbean and African American societies (by and large not exactly a hotbed of methodological reflexivity or theoretical sophistication at the time). Neither was revolutionary Cuba a particularly “well-worked” field. Though there did exist a sizable pre-revolutionary literature, ethnographic research on the island was languishing after an initial burst of important publications in the 1960s, and foreign (especially US-based) researchers had not been granted research visa for projects concerning “popular religious culture” ever since (and perhaps because) Oscar Lewis and his group had been asked to leave the island in 1970. Thus while the Cuban Editorial Ciencias Sociales mainly kept republishing Fernando Ortiz’ oeuvre throughout the so-called “period of scientific atheism”, up until the end of the 1980s, virtually all the genuinely fieldwork-based Anglophone monographs on the subject dealt with Afro-Cuban religious practices among Cuban exiles – in New York and New Jersey (as with the dissertations of Murphy 1980, Friedman 1982, Brandon 1983, Gregory 1986, and Brown 1989) or Miami (as in the case of Castellanos 1977 and Palmié 1991). All of us, in other words, began our fieldwork in Cuba at a very specific historical conjuncture: at the point when Cuba’s souring of economic and political relations with the Soviet Union, and the latter’s self-destruction in 1991, not only plunged the island into the unexpected and unprecedented crisis of the “périodo especial”, but fundamentally changed the “rules of ethnographic engagement” there. If, during the 1970s, ethnographic work on governmentally unsanctioned topics was made near impossible by the laws regulating Cuban citizens’ contacts with foreigners (to a point where unauthorized conversations with foreigners could be interpreted as a potentially “pre-criminal” act of ideological diversionism), by the early 1990s, not only could ethnographers submerge themselves in the waves of foreign tourists streaming to Cuba in ever larger numbers, the Cuban state’s own recognition that the nation’s African heritage represented a “country factor advantage” worked in our favor as well (to a point where, by now, publications by foreigners have completely overtaken the native Cuban output).

By then, of course, what we were seeing in Cuba not only had changed since Melville Herskovits had sent his student William Bascom to Cuba to gauge the strength of local “African retentions” and relative superficiality of Catholic “syncretism” (Bascom 1950, 1951, 1953). We also looked at it through very different sorts of spectacles. In good part, this was so because we had developed perspectives on our subject in tune with (as the glib phrases go) the “reflexive” and “historical” turns in the social sciences. We had also read Sidney Mintz and Richard Price’s influential 1976 essay (Mintz and Price 1992) that urged a rigorous historicization of the processes out of which contemporary African-American cultures had emerged. And we had become skeptical of the dubious methodological moves by which decontextualized data from both sides of the Atlantic tended to be short-circuited in order to derive “African origins” for contemporary New World cultural forms. Finally, in our North American fieldwork we had become dissatisfied with the neo-functionalist interpretations that reduced Santería to a surrogate “mental health care system” (e.g. Sandoval 1979) resorted to by immigrants riddled with acculturation-induced psychological problems , and we had plainly gotten bored with the descriptive laundry lists of deities and their attributes (“Chango’s color is red, he eats ram, owns the drums, manifests in thunder and lightning”, and so forth) characteristic of much of the recent literature at the time .

Of different, but perhaps not lesser importance, however, was that all three authors under review here, were then in the process of becoming practitioners of Afro-Cuban religion themselves. Following in the footsteps of French scholars of Brazil (such as Roger Bastide or Pierre Verger), but going against the grain of much of traditional Anglophone academic praxis , Mason, Hagedorn and Brown all underwent initiation into Regla de Ocha (better known as santería) – and so are writing about religious forms and traditions that they do not regard merely as ethnographic givens “out there”, but which, to varying degrees, and certainly with different rhetorical emphasis, these authors claim as parts of their own lives and biographies. If, as I have argued elsewhere (Palmié 1995, 2001), santeros have been “writing back” in rebuttal of academic treatments of their religion for quite some time, the line between “them” and “us” has now become blurred: the dialogues of the future, it would seem, may well be conducted between santeros who have turned themselves into scholars of their religion, and scholars who have turned themselves into practitioners thereof – with an occasional secular student of such matters (such as the author of this review) chiming in from the margins.

Starting at the most self-conscious end, Michael Mason’s Living Santería, in part, reads like a road map into Regla de Ocha. In four brief chapters, Mason tracks what he calls “experiences common to most practitioners as they enter the tradition” (11). His goal is to elucidate “the lived experience of various human subjects at different levels of involvement” in regla de ocha (11), and the transformation their “subjectivity” undergoes as their relationships and interaction with other practitioners, spirits, and divine entities develop and intensify. Framed by an introduction, a more analytical fifth chapter, and a conclusion, the course runs from an initial divinatory consultation undertaken by a female client for essentially secular reasons, through the rites of bestowal of the “guerreros” (the warrior deities Eleguá, Ochosi and Ogún) and its attendant establishment of moral relationships with a human initator and a set of deities, on to a chapter about the vicissitudes of managing religious and secular projections of identity among practicing santeros as they traverse North American social terrain, and culminates in a step-by-step description of the initiatory process itself. What Mason is after, it appears, is the gradual socialization into, and individual habituation of, conditions of agency and experience opened up, defined by, and validated through what, in effect, constitutes a process of religious conversion. For that, or so it seems to me, is largely what he is talking about when positing transformations of “subjectivity” through increasingly embodied knowledge that generates new feelings of both control and submission, as well as new arenas for engagement of similarly structured “subjectivities”, both human and divine . If so, however, it is not clear why Mason cuts himself off from the increasingly sophisticated literature on “conversion” – which has long left behind the lingering Weberian teleological emphasis on “properly rationalized” world religions, and might have opened up perspectives that Mason’s narrowly “phenomenological” approach cannot address. What Mason tells us is that the gradual process of becoming a santero or santera does something for one’s sense of self as a moral (and cosmological) agent. But were it not for the ideology of a necessary sudden conversion experience – where Saul falls from his horse, and stands up as Paul to thank his savior – the same could be said about evangelical Protestantism. Few people convert to even such zealous gods as Yahwe “all at once”, and Mason’s account of being “hailed by the oricha”, and gradually leaning to answer their call (and, one imagines, learning to want to answer it, too) might have been a useful addition to a literature that aims at removing what Robin Horton (1984) once called the “Judeo-Christian spectacles” still riding on the noses of far too many sociologists of religion.

As it stands, however, Living Santeria does not fully live up to the “interstitial” qualities the author sees as constitutive of all ethnographic endeavors (not that there are too many people around, these days, who think of ethnography as productive of morally unencumbered, purely “objective knowledge”!). Nor does its episodic structure, focusing on “representative events” in the life of santeros in a state of becoming, deliver the kind of sociological and historical depth that would allow other scholars to fruitfully generalize from it. Mason is at his most effective, when he deliberately dons both hats at once, and speaks about how e.g. dreaming of the deities he worships – and studies – for him comes to inform a unified vision of an epistemic project in which anthropological knowledge affects his religious quest, and divinely revealed truths must, for the practitioner-scholar, inform any auto-ethno-graphic endeavor. Having clarified the conditions of possibility for such a “hybrid” epistemological stance (if only for himself) is a contribution in itself . For despite their lack of educational credentials comparable to ours, the intellectual virtuosi (to use a Weberian term) among Mason’s santero peers, have done no less for at least the past century: poring over our textual productions, and engaging us in debate, they have been rationalizing our modes of knowledge production just as much as we have rationalized theirs.

This much quickly becomes evident in the second book under consideration here, ethnomusicologist Katherine Hagedorn’s Divine Utterances – a work that also aims to straddle the insider-outsider gap in the literature on Afro-Cuban religion. Much like Mason, Hagedorn tells her reader right off the bat that “[i]t has been through the lens of folkloric performances that I have framed lo religioso, the religious, and now it is through religious performance that I frame lo folklórico, the folkloric” (6f.) . She, too, steers her reader towards understanding her book as some sort of conversion narrative in which her spiritual persona as a future daughter of the deity Ochún repeatedly generates mythologically prefigured experiences of dramatic conflict with her divine guardian’s sexual antagonist, Ogún. Yet Divine Utterances has a very different agenda from Mason’s Living Santería. For while Mason aims to close the distance between “life and text”, foregrounding “lived experience” at the expense of analytical depth, Hagedorn seems far more comfortable with maintaining or even generating an ironic tension between them. In fact, she is arguably at her best when she foregrounds the paradoxical and contradictory – e.g. when she monitors the deliberate, but hardly successful attempts on the part of Cuban cultural engineers (both prior and during the revolution) to incorporate Afro-Cuban cultural forms into (changing) national projects by eviscerating them of their religious content; when she confronts the institutional history of the project of creating a “national Folklore” in step with revolutionary consciousness with the deeply conflicted memories of state agents whose well-meaning and deeply felt need to insure “authenticity” resulted in the growth of religiously defined networks of power and patronage within the Conjunto Folklorico Nacional – an ostensibly secular instrument of revolutionary cultural production; or when she exposes the covert racism at the heart of an supposedly emancipatory project (viz. to liberate the cultural expressions of black workers from pre-revolutionary bourgeois denigration) that nevertheless harked back to a conception of both “Africanity” and “religion” as impediments to social progress and modernization.

Such contextualization lends a quality of ironic distance to Hagedorn’s more personal reflections – such as those on her apprenticeship as a female batá drummer (an oxymoronic concept) to Alberto Villareal, one of the Conjunto’s current leading performers and practicing olú añá (consecrated drummer). But it never results in an authorial stance that betrays any less than her commitment to the eminently masculine musical tradition she is trying to formally master, and the religious precepts that stand at the back of it. This becomes even more evident in what is (at least in my idea) the most fascinating chapter of her book, aptly entitled “Blurring the Boundaries: Merging Sacred and Profane”. For what happens, conceptually, Hagedorn asks here, when a secularly conceived folkloric performance of programmatically modified sacred rhythms and chants in front of an audience composed of tourists, secular aficionados, hustlers, and practicing santeros not merely involves choreographed simulacra of possession behavior on stage, but accidentally triggers a divine possession among the audience? And how would we know the difference? Is a rhythmic performance conceived of as “sacred” audibly any different from the same set of drums-beats intended as a profane utterance? Hagedorn’s answer is yes – and no: “precisely because the performances sound the same”, she writes (111 emphasis mine) á propos the depiction of divine possession in Gloria Rolando’s 1992 film Oggún, because the space between the sacred and the secular is inaudible, understanding the terms of where and how the sound gets produced might be more important than what is heard. The intent of the possession performance gains primacy over the performance itself, but because of a shared corpus of body memories of possession, some aspect of the sacred is recalled. Clearly, in the case of the feigned possession, the intent is not to bring down the deity – that is, the intent is not to get possessed, but rather to mimic possession so expertly that the experience seems real on film. But the success of the staged performance relies almost completely on those bodies who have been possessed, so the boundaries between “source” and “derivation” become blurred or even irrelevant.

Quite clearly, Hagedorn puts her finger on a core contradiction at the heart of the “anatomía del proceso folklorico” (thus part of the title of Hagedorn’s original dissertation): neither we, nor the designers of the folkloric spectacles that “real santeros” produce under the auspices of a “real existing socialism” can really know. To what extent the sacred is prone to intrude into secular performance (or vice versa: to what extent such performances act back on the liturgical context off of which their choreography works) is a contextual issue – and one that cannot be blanketed by statements about the phenomenology of “lived experience” (for isn’t faking possession – even in a sacred context – a “lived experience”, too?). This is precisely because there simply is no empirical difference between the two kinds of “reality”, sacred and secular. For all practical purposes, they look and sound the same. For who could tell what really is “in the body” of someone enacting a divine persona? Someone wanting to show off his or her skills at performing the gestural repertoire of divine histrionics for a variety of personal motives? A state-employed santero trained to perform “as if”, and drawing a line between different values produced through gainful employment and sacred “work”? Or a genuine divine presence with its own “wholly other” reasoning and rhyme?

At moments such as these, Hagedorn makes a powerful – and really rather understated – contribution to a much larger set of issues and conversations (e.g. Boddy 1995, Das 1998). Rather than pursue such lines of inquiry beyond one (truly dazzling) chapter, however, she goes off on other tangents, chronicling the problems of life in Cuba during the “special period”, presenting descriptive data on ritual music and its ambiguous “folkloric” transformations (nicely accompanied by a CD), a somewhat disjointed account of the criminalization of Afro-Cuban religion, some rather impressionistic remarks on contemporary Cuban forms of racism and their articulation with the exploding tourist industry, and further explorations of her own relationships to the deities she studies and serves. Yet despite its somewhat disorganized character, Hagedorn’s book does represent a critical achievement – and precisely because she manages to successfully call into question the boundaries between the supposedly “authentic” and its “fabricated” doubles, exposing the difficulties of delimiting “real experiences” from its supposed “empirical symptoms” (which are visually and audibly indistinguishable from “good fakes”), and illuminating the range of contradictions the Cuban state courted in half-heartedly embracing its nation’s “popular traditions”.

If Hagedorn is at her most incisive when she switches from a romantic rhetorical mode to an ironic one, David Brown’s The Light Inside can be read as a brilliant, tongue in cheek epistemological meditation on method (and its madness) in Afro-Cuban, and Afro-Atlantic studies more generally – and it is instructive to consult it first before going on to read his long awaited magnum opus, Santería Enthroned. On the surface, The Light Inside is a book about a single set of unusual-looking objects assembled on, or next to, a table covered with a brightly silk-embroidered black velvet drape: plumed staffs, small cylindrical or goblet-shaped drums, a crucifix, something that looks like a monstrance, a red suit with a conical head-piece. Yet like all other things that humans tinker with or produce, this curious assemblage has not just a material, but discursive presence. As Brown argues in taking cues from Appadurai (1986) and Kopytoff (1986), the objects in question look back on a complicated social life and biography – one that is constituted through the accumulation of narratives around them: how they came to be assembled in the shape Brown was able to photograph in 1992, what highly differentiated meanings they hold for their makers and users, and how these and similar “sacra” pertaining to the male secret society Abakuá became the referents of a polyphonous swirl of public representations that have come to envelope them since the middle of the nineteenth century – all that is a matter that not only defies typologizing maneuvers (“this is an example of an abakuá-altar”), but asks for what Brown (241) calls a historical “contextualization of the archive” that nowadays enables the beholders of these objects to place them under coherent descriptions, be they of sacred or secular nature.

As Brown himself repeatedly acknowledges, his is ultimately just another such narrative. Yet precisely because he eschews a rhetorical stance “outside” the stream of discourses washing over the objects on the altar of the abakuá lodge he chose to call Eforí Eñongo, Brown manages to first “tell” these objects’s story in a manner that largely coincides with the views of both contemporary Cuban obonecues (members of abakuá) and their scholarly analysts – and then to read that story itself as a historically dense palimpsest of past accretions: an “archive”, the structure of which can be deciphered by careful historical contextualization. Accordingly, Brown initially situates the deeply personal meanings the altar objects of Eforí Eñongo hold for the man he calls Jesús Nasako (who renovated them in 1979) within larger narratives, internal to the association itself, that concern abakuá’s mythical origins and historical career. At the same time, however, he shows that at another level, parts of such stories also became canonical within very different discursive traditions: those produced by the Cuban state and its legal apparatus in its colonial, republican, and revolutionary incarnations; others generated by a variety of observers (ranging from police inspectors to artists and local color writers, on to ethnographers and art historians); and others yet originating with anthropologists and historians, for whom the “case” of Cuban abakuá appears to speak to a range of issues pertaining to the cultural history of the African diaspora.

The results of Brown’s exegesis of these partly autonomous, but mutually articulated discourses should give all of us a moment to pause. Take, for example, his characterization of the scholarly end of things: for too long, Brown argues, have we represented “art makers, objects, and ritual actions” as “’transparent’ to a set of timeless cultural values or ‘core principles’”, supposedly characteristic of ethnographically delimitable groups in Africa and the New World (4). Once such “transparency” has become discursively established, it is a short step to representing African American objects “as the essential descendants of their African source cultures” by imaginatively stripping away incongruent “additions” so as to render them “traceable, like isotopes, to a set of African morphological prototypes within a relatively uniform and transatlantic semantic field” (5). Yet even approaches based on models of interchange between heterogeneous cultural systems, and often associated with terms such as “syncretism” or “creolization”, for Brown, ultimately, generate stories whose analytical “signifying potential” ought to be confronted with the remarkable account of Brown’s key informant Jesús Nasako. “No one besides me would be able to explain to you the meaning of these things”, the man told Brown (5), “because they come from my personal experience and family history” – and, one would like to add, the history of Cuba itself. Never mind that when he renovated Eforí Eñongo’s title-holders’ sacred staffs of office Jesús Nasako did work off of a template that arguably has African origins, and that is seen as originating in Africa by contemporary obonecues and scholars alike: that the staff of the incumbent to the Abasonga-title bears a mass-produced brass medal depicting St. Christopher may be taken as evidence of a syncretistic process that analogizes the transitional role of the sainted ferryman in Catholicism with that of Abasonga, who, as a figure in abakuá’s founding myth, is instrumental in transacting the mystery from one side of an African river of the Cuban imagination to the other. That Jesús Nasakó affixed this medal to Abasonga’s staff, however, has nothing to do with what Herskovits (1937) called a mechanically evolving “confusion of theological concept”, but with the fact that Jesús Nasako received it as a gift from his baptismal godfather in 1958. The decision was entirely deliberate, and although informed by a specific “ethnoaesthetic” (as Brown might call it), ultimately cannot be reduced to it. The same holds for his 1979 decision to crown Mokongo’s staff with a chromed nude female figure with outstretched arms. Again, and for aesthetic, theological and biographical reasons very much his own, Jesús Nasakó saw a semblance to Sikan (the female mythological character who originally discovered the secret and was put to death for it) in a hood ornament of a Ford Edsel – which he stole well before the Cuban revolution put an end to the import of American gas guzzlers, and eventually inserted into a very different “regime of value”, thus “Africanizing” and “sacralizing” a North American commodity fetish (The Light Inside, 84-93) . Who, indeed, but Jesús Nasako, could have told that story? And what an allegory of transatlantic knowledge production it is!

But of course, ritual “art makers” such as Jesús Nasako never operated in a vacuum. Hence the story of how their productions “graduated” (in Browns terms) from public indexes of “African atavism” or “criminal evidence” to “folkloric specimens” and expressions of Cuba’s “national cultural heritage” is one that – or so Brown rightly insists – cannot be told separate from the story of the growth of African derived traditions in Cuba, or even apart from Jesús Nasako’s own biography as a maker of objects over which semantic and political contests have raged for well over a century now. And just as Brown’s fieldwork allows him to pinpoint inconsistencies in the stories members of abakuá tell each other (and their ethnographers) – e.g. about the historical transmission of the sese-drum’s shape and secrets (The Light Inside, 98-111) – so does his reading of the “archive” unearth a welter of contradictions. For Brown, “comparative ethnography and art history engage not simply in the contrast and comparison of practices, but in the contrast and comparison of representations of practices” (The Light Inside, 133, emphasis in the original). Hence the task he sets himself in the second part of The Light Inside is not to ask “whether Abakuá society objects are or are not ‘art and philosophy’ ”. What Brown wants to know is “what historically situated truth claims were made about and around [such] objects in order to constitute their particular status at a given moment [and] how individuals, groups, and institutions have appropriated things Abakuá […] in order to make cultural meaning and further local, national, and international agendas” (The Light Inside, 133).

This he proceeds to show in such stunning detail that a single example must suffice to render the flavor of his interpretations. Brown’s discussion of the long-term Cuban resident Basque artist Victor Patricio Landaluze’s depictions (published in 1881) of íreme (spirit-embodying dancers wearing a complexly patterned cloth-body mask) thus makes no bones about the African derivation of the “saco de íreme”. On one level of interpretation, Landaluze might well be said to have provided a visual record of a Cross River-type body mask in Cuba more than 30 years before P. Amaury Talbot published a photograph of its “supposed” ancestor in southeastern Nigeria. But this is precisely the kind of reasoning Brown wants to circumvent and complicate. For the transformation of Landaluze’s imagery into an icon of changing public meanings attached to Abakuá (from menace to Cuban civilizational progress to valued African heritage, from symptom of criminal atavism to evidence of “African art and philosophy” in the Americas) took off from what for all intents and purposes was already a deeply hybridized image. As a trained art historian, Brown has no trouble reading Landaluze’s work as a visual transposition of European postural principles (ranging from classically Greek to Renaissance and Baroque themes) onto an Afro-Cuban subject matter (The Light Inside, 133-144). What is “African” or “European” in the resulting image is hard to tell, and indeed perhaps beside the point. For given that Landaluze’s “El Ñáñigo” lithograph nowadays is held to represent an original stage of “African” authenticity in Cuba not just by scholars, but by members of Abakuá as well, would we even want to speak of syncretism here? And who would be its agent?

For Brown, it seems, the question itself is misguided. Rather than proceeding from postulated “cultural source entities” that supposedly come in contact with each other, and then generate “mixtures”, syncretisms, or more general states of “hybridity” and “epistemic murk” (as Homi Bhabha or Michael Taussig might put the matter in their own, more flamboyant ways), Brown sees his task in tracking the movements of single objects between and across fields of signification (whoever’s “culture” they may be thought to constitute). And this precisely is his agenda in Santería Enthroned , a magnificent and truly interdisciplinary book – in fact, perhaps several books rolled into one. Santería Enthroned can be read as the first genuine social history (worthy of the name) of Afro-Cuban religion in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, a superb ethnography of forms of historical consciousness based on more than a decade of intermittent fieldwork in Cuba, a richly illustrated art historical monograph, an eloquent testimony to the complexity of Caribbean cultures, and a searing challenge to methodology and theory in Afro-Atlantic studies. Organized around a central multivocal image of divine royalty, Santería Enthroned delineates a good century of changes in institutional structure, ritual practice and iconographic form, carrying the reader through a series of minutely detailed episodes crucial to the formation of what we, today, know as Regla de Ocha. In the process, Brown sweeps away a whole range of time-hallowed conceptions about the kind of “organic” processes that supposedly led to the implantation of originally African cultural forms in New World settings, and their gradual erosion (or, alternatively, retention) among the descendant of enslaved “bearers” of such African cultural forms. What emerges instead is nothing short of a radical revision of Afro-Cuban cultural history: for Brown, Regla de Ocha does not represent a diasporic specimen or variant of “Yoruba religion” (something that cannot be said to have existed in Africa even as late as the nineteenth century) that was imported whole-cloth by the thousands of enslaved Yoruba-speakers who reached Cuba in the first half of the nineteenth century. Rather, Regla de Ocha (and specifically the cult of Ifá) was literally cooked up, no earlier than the last two decades of the nineteenth century, by fewer than a dozen Africans and their creole descendants living in or near the Third “barrio” of the town of Regla, and continued to undergo dramatic and contentious transformations throughout the first half of the twentieth century as it spread through western Cuba’s provinces of Havana and Matanzas. What is more, while many of the founding figures are remembered today as “reformers” or “rectifiers” of traditions that had been incompletely transmitted, or become corrupted over time, when systematically correlated, such contemporary discourses, in fact, reveal exactly the opposite: most of the ancestral figures recalled in invocatory prayers (moyuba) today were crafty innovators who, in selectively drawing on heterogeneous cultural sources (some of which undoubtedly were of Yoruba provenance), not just systematized and theologically rationalized a “religion” that had not exited as such before (whether in Africa or Cuba), but strategically situated themselves in positions of authority and control over the dissemination of the knowledge and practices they had helped to institutionalize.

However, as Brown makes clear right from the start, to reduce the case to a simple matter of the “invention of tradition” would equally be to miss the point: “though I may use the term ‘innovation’ in generally describing the accomplishments of particular historical actors”, he writes in one of the few passages in the book where he seems to speak as both scholar and practitioner (Santería Enthroned, 11), “I apply the term ‘reform’ in specific cases to practitioners’ historical consciousness and their modes of explanation”, for in their view, “[b]aseless and unauthorized changes disrespect the priestly deceased, the egun, who delivered tradition, upon whose shoulders we stand, and to whom we must answer”. And it is in following practitioners’ own narrative constructions that Brown supercedes the sterile objectivism of the “invention of tradition” conceit. Obviously, discourses about “origins” and “traditions”, “continuity” or “discontinuity”, “authenticity” and “illegitimacy” inevitably express political positions and maneuver. However, the historical vision of contemporary practitioners acknowledges no less, revolving as it does around two ambivalently juxtaposed, and strategically activated, narrative constructions. As Brown (Santería Enthroned ,77) puts it, one is
a story of linear continuity with an authentic origin or primordial spiritual ground: the tierra (homeland) of the Yoruba of West Africa or an ancestral personage (egun), for example, or a Lucumí or creole who founded a rama (branch) of the Lucumí religion in Cuba. The other is a story about agency, struggle, discontinuity and heroic achievement.

As far as the latter storyline is concerned, Brown’s oral historical research leaves no doubt that right from the beginning, struggles over the authorization of what could count as “traditional” were part and parcel of the very process out of which the “tradition” itself grew – and are remembered as such to this day. Perhaps as early as the last decades of the nineteenth century, but certainly by the second decade of the twentieth, now famous priestly figures were forced to undergo reconsecration rituals in order to accommodate rival initiatory traditions that had begun to locally coalesce in Matanzas and Havana. By the mid-twentieth century, the emergence of a new priestly commission – that of the obá oriaté – not only had led to the emergence of what Brown calls two partly overlapping “ritual fields” (one centered on the “orichas” and another on the oracular deity Ifá/Orúnmila), but split practitioners along the lines of groups dominated by babalawos and others rejecting their claims to ultimate ritual and theological authority. At the same time, by the 1950s babalawos themselves began to engage in fierce struggles over the authority to control the crucial reproductive resource of the Olofin – a sacrum indispensable to the initiation of new babalawos, and therefore a key to the strategic building of hierarchical religious descent-lines (ramas) under the control of single senior priests.

Since Brown’s research into the initiatory genealogies of Cuba’s babalawos represents one of his most important contributions to an historical anthropology of Afro-Cuban religion, it is worth briefly expanding on the strange career of the Olofin. What Brown’s findings indicate is that virtually all babalawos active in Cuba today trace their initiatory descent to five African fundamentos (founding figures) active in the town of Regla in the last quarter of the nineteenth century. Now according to the narrative tradition emphasizing continuity over disjunctures, some African-born babalawos carried their Olofin secrets to Cuba in the holds of slave ships (a topos repeated in stories about how enslaved babalawos tied their divining chains around their waist, or swallowed the consecrated palm nuts used in Ifá divination before embarking on the Middle Passage). In contradistinction, what Brown calls the “discontinuity/transformation cycle of diasporic narratives” posits the deliberate return of some babalawos to Africa and details their epic quest for this holy grail of Cuban babalawos (which, to my knowledge, so far lacks documentation in Africa), in order to create the conditions of possibility for the reproduction of the cult of Ifá in Cuba . Yet however the Cuban Olofin-tradition originated, its initial pace of dissemination was slow and linked to a mechanism of inheritance (by either biological offspring or ritual descendants of the original owner). By the first two decades of the twentieth century, a first and second generation of creole babalawos inaugurated a pattern, whereby strategic lending out of Olofin-objects by the heads of emerging religious lineages (ramas) to junior babalawo’s aspiring to build up groups of religious dependents on their own became a political tool for senior Olofistas to control the members of their ritual descent groups. But it also quickened the pace of initiations. By the 1950s, however, the enterprising and – according to Brown’s sources – ruthless third generation babalawo Miguel Febles y Padrón (1910-86) changed all of this. Although new Olofíns had been “born” (as babalawos would put it) in Cuba before, Febles now began to mass-manufacture and sell these objects. He also threatened and intimidated rivals who would dare to impugn the authenticity of his Olofin-objects, or try to impede his monopolistic project of turning himself into the founding figure for literally hundreds if not thousands of babalawos active, by then, not only in Cuba, but in exile in the U.S. Venezuela, Panama, or Mexico.

As a result, “the operative location of Olofin’s ‘authentic origin’ shifted over time”, as Brown (Santería Enthroned, 90f.) sums up the bearing of these “stories” on any conception of Afro-Cuban religious history: In the beginning, as it were, Africans in Cuba saw Olofin’s ultimate source as ‘West Africa’, from which nineteenth century babalawos had embarked, and to which their agents are believed to have returned to reclaim Olofin’s secrets. Then a small Havana collective of Lucumí founders and later, a short roster of early creoles, became the proximate or local ‘origin’ of this jealously guarded fundamento […]. After the 1950s, the ‘origin’ of Olofin, for all intents and purposes, became sited in the fundamento of Miguel Febles.

Yet this transatlantically shifting pattern of allocations of “origin” did not end here. For in a move deliberately designed to thwart Febles’ project of installing himself as the future fons et origo of Ifá in the New World, in 1975 a group of disgruntled Miami babalawos headed by José Miguel Gómez Barberas flew to Nigeria, acquired what was represented to them as the equivalent of the Olofin, and later invited their Nigerian benefactor Ifá Yemí Eleguibon to officiate over the – now autonomous – initiation of new babalawos in Miami. Clearly, and much as in the case of the North American black Yoruba Reversionist Movement , Gómez and his group’s shrewd maneuver to re-activate “Africa” as a viable chronotope of primordial authenticity and legitimacy constituted a major break with “tradition” – both in the sense of established practice, and in regards to how practitioners imagine a seamless flow of knowledge and practices through the conduit of the genealogical construct of the “ramas” of initiatory descent. However, as Brown is able to show, they did not – and perhaps could not – dispense with elements of the trope of linear continuity: constructing an arguably “postmodern”, but nonetheless highly “traditional” transatlantic spiritual genealogy, Gomez claimed that his Nigerian benefactor Yemí Eleguibon was the grandson of one of the four enslaved Africans who, in his view, installed the cult of Ifá in Cuba in the first place! Thus closing a circle of the Diasporic imagination, these Miami babalawos not only emancipated themselves from their Cuban “sources”, but – in conflating suburban South Florida with a “Yorubaland” which they had been reading about since at least the 1930s – generated a continuity narrative harking back to those very enslaved African fundamentos in Cuba whose legitimatory capacity, to this day, cannot be called into question.

As this example shows, all representations of pastness and becoming in contemporary Afro-Cuban religion are highly overdetermined composites – “marvelous hybrids” (Santería Enthroned, 288), to use Brown’s phrase – whose internal tensions and productive potential is ill-captured by our attempts to sort out its constituent elements according to criteria which ultimately fail to do justice to the historicity of even our own constructions of “Africa” and “Europe” (e.g. Mudimbe 1988, Appiah 1992)! This, arguably, is the gist of the second half of Brown’s book which he devotes to a painstaking analysis of the ritual iconography of contemporary Regla de Ocha. For the ideal of divine radiance contemporary practitioners aim to achieve in the assemblages composing the thrones on which recent initiates display the splendor of the “palace of the obá Lucumí” is no less than such a “marvelous hybrid” – the result of long and complicated histories of strategic (or even just opportunistic) appropriation of heterogeneous symbols of prestige and grandeur into an “ethnoaesthetic” that cannot be said to have preceded such processes of hybridization, but emerged from them, and presents their momentarily visible result. For how else to reconcile a contemporary New Jersey thronemaker’s predilection for the style of Louis XV (“in fact, all the Luises”) with the fact that what he is creating is an iconic landscape explicitly gesturing towards both “Africa” and “Cuba” as points of reference? Or how to explain the long history during which an originally “Yoruba” model of containers of the sacred got transposed upon the ceramic forms provided by mass produced “French style” British soup tureens “trickling down” in their function as prestige goods from nineteenth century grand bourgeois Cuban households to the “casas de santo” (cult groups of modern Regla de Ocha) forming at just about the same time? Indeed, “the possibility that priests could ‘choose’, through purchase, the way their Ocha houses and ceremonies looked by selecting from an array of African and European trade goods, as well as from the mundane houseware shelves at the corner bodega, renders quite uninteresting any essentialist argument for African origin as a determinant of any given diasporc cultural arrangement”. For ultimately, “the place of ‘origin’ of Cuban Lucumí iconography belongs to the specific historical conjunctures, spaces, and cultural and countercultural imaginations of the ‘modern’ Atlantic world” (Santería Enthroned, 273) – a conceptual location, that is, which opens up the possibility of tracking the historical as well as discursive movements of “putatively stable and legitimating origins” as they shift between different temporal and spatial registers (Santería Enthroned, 17).

In his discussions of all this – and more! – Brown goes so far beyond the bounds of the theoretical literature on “creolization” or “syncretism” available today, that one wonders if such conceptual abstractions really can deliver the cargo we have long expected from them. At least in the Cuban case, we now know that this is not so. We need a more differentiated data base, a more reflexive methodology, and a sharper focus on what exactly the people whose agency we have become accustomed to subsume under such facile labels intended to achieve, what, historically speaking, such agency amounted to, and how its effects are retrospectively interpreted. Arguably, Brown has farther advanced this goal in the context of a thoroughly documented case study than anyone since the publication of Roger Bastide’s Les Religions Afro-Brésiliennes in 1960. And I don’t think I could do any better than to cite his own conclusions (Santería Enthroned, 296) about the “state of the art” in the field of inquiry I share with him and the other authors of the books reviewed in this essay:

Clearly, the study of Afro-Cuban religions deserves greater dialogue with the full range of Black Atlantic historiography, including studies that contextualize black cultures in relation to national and Atlantic histories […]. At the same time, I would not wish to see detailed local ethnographic, closely focused art historical and ethnohistorical inquiry fall by the wayside in such historical investigations. As scholars, we continue to labor under an extremely undeveloped ethnographic and chronological picture of the Afro-Cuban religious systems and their local variations. We have few biographies or close historical studies of Black Atlantic or African Diaspora religious or artistic practitioners […]. No intensive ethnohistorical studies exist on the differences in practice among religious houses in Havana and Matanzas, within and among northeastern Brazilian cities in the Candomblé,or between Haitian regions in Vodou, let alone between practices in New York Miami, and California. A growing number of self-reflexive ethnographic studies of Santería, Vodou, and Candomblé, which revolve around their authors’ experiences in relation to these religions, are welcome, but do not always paint the kind of detailed historical picture most needed.

Instead, Brown finds “much to be said for straightforward antiquarian studies of local religion” – and if Santería Enthroned were to represent such “antiquarianism”, I at least, would heartily concur. Brown’s Santería Enthroned has set a standard that will be hard for any of us to match – and whether we regard our endeavors as “religious ethnographies” or “ethnographies of religion” may well not matter much in this respect. More importantly, however, its ethnographic richness, conceptual power, theoretical subtlety, and sheer brilliance ought to earn it recognition well beyond the field of Afro-Atlantic studies.


REFERENCES:

Appadurai, Arjun. 1986. “Introduction: Commodities and the Politics of Value” in: Arjun Appadurai (ed.) The Social Life of Things. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, pp. 3-63.

Appiah, Kwame Anthony. 1992. In My Father’s House. Ne York: Oxford University Press.

Barnet, Miguel. 2001. Afro-Cuban Religions. Princeton: Marcus Wiener Publications.

Bascom, William. 1950. “The Focus of Cuban Santería” Southwestern Journal of Anthropology 6:64-68.

-----. 1951. “The Yoruba in Cuba” Nigeria Magazin 37:14-20

-----. 1953. .”Yoruba Acculturation in Cuba” Mémoirs de l’Institut Français d’Afrique Noir 27:163-167.

Boddy, Janice. 1995. “Spirit Possession Revisited: Beyond Instrumentality” Annual Review of Anthropology 23:407-434.

Braga, Julio. 1995. Braga, Julio. 1995. Na Gamela do Feitiço. Editora da Universidade Ferderal da Bahia.

Brandon, George. 1983. “The Dead Sell Memories: An Anthropological Study of Santería in New York City” Ph.D. dissertation, Rutgers University.

Brown, David. 1989. “Garden in the Machine: Afro-Cuban Sacred Art and Performance in Urban New Jersey and New York” Ph.D. dissertation, Yale University.

Capone, Stefania. 1999. La quête de l’Afrique dans le Candomblé. Paris: Karthala.

Castellanos, Isabel. 1977. “The Use of Language in Afro-Cuban Religion” Ph.D. dissertation, Georgetown University.

Comaroff and Coaroff. 1991. Of Revelation and Revolution (vol. 1). Chicago: University Of Chicago Press.

----. 1997. Of Revelation and Revolution (vol. 2). Chicago: University of Chicago Press.

Das, Veena. 1998. “Wittgenstein and Anthropology” Annual Review of Anthropology 27:171-95

Evans Pritchard, Edward E. 1956. Nuer Religion. Oxford: Oxford University Press.

Friedman, Robert Alan. 1982. Making an Astract World Concrete: Knowledge, Competnce, and Structural Dimensions of Performance among Bata Drummers in Santería”, Ph.D. dissertation, Indiana University.

Gregory, Steven. 1986. “Santería in New York City: A Study in Cultural Resistance.” Ph.D. dissertation, New School for Social Research.

Hefner, Robert W. 1993. “World Building and the Rationality of Conversion” in: Robert W. Hefner (ed.) Conversion to Christianity. Berkeley: University of California Press, pp. 3-43.

-----. 1998. “Multiple Modernities: Christianity, Islam, and Hinduism in a Globalizing Age” Annual Review of Anthropology 27:84-104

Herskovits, Melville. 1937. “African Gods and Catholic Saints in New World Negro Belief” American Anthropologist 39:635-43.

Horton, Robin. 1984. “Judeo-Chrisian Spectacles: Boon or Bane to the Study of African Religions?” Cahiers d’Etudes Africaines 96:391-436.

Keane, Webb. 1997. “From Fetishism to Sincerity: On Agency, the Speaking Subect, and Their Historicity in the Context of Religious Conversion” Comparative Studies in Society and History 39:674-693.

Kopytoff, Igor. 1986. “The Cultural Biography of Things: Commodification as Process” in: Arjun Appadurai (ed.) The Social Life of Things. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, pp. 64-94.

Landau, Paul. 1999. “’Religion’ and Christian Conversion in African History: A New Model” Journal of Religious History 23:8-30.

Matory, J. Lorand. 1999. “The English Professors of Brazil: On the Diasporic Roots of the Yorùbá Nation” Comparative Studies in Society and History 41:72-103

-----. 2001. “The ‘Cult of Nations’ and the Ritualization of Their Purity” South Atlantic Quarterly 100:171-214.

Meyer, Birgit. 1999. Translating the Devil: Religion and Modernity among the Ewe in Ghana. Trenton: Africa World Press.

Meyer, Morris and Baba Ogunda Bede-Fagbamila. 1991. “Ifa and Me: A Divination of Ethnography” Passages 1:6-9.

Mintz, Sidny W. and Richard Price. 1992. The Birth of African American Culture. Boston: beacon Press.

Mudimbe, Valentine Y. 1988. The Invcention of Africa. Bloomington: Indiana University Press.

Murphy, Joseph. 1980. “Ritual Systems in Cuban Santería” Ph.D. dissertation, Temple University.

Palmié, Stephan. 1991. Das Exil der Götter. Frankfurt: Peter Lang.

-----. 1995. “Against Sycretism: Africanizing and Cubanizing Discourses in North American òrìsà- Worship” in: Richard Fardon (ed.) Counterworks: Managing the Diversity of Culture. London: Routledge, pp. 73-104.

-----. 2001. “Of Pharisees and Snark Hunters: Afro-Cuban Religion as an Object of Knowledge” Culture and Religion 1:3-19.

Peel, J.D.Y. 1990.“The Pastor and the Babalawo: The Interaction of Religions in Nineteenth-Century Yorubaland” Africa 60:338-369.

-----. 2000. Religious Encounter and the Making of the Yoruba. Bloomington: Indiana University Press

Price, Richard. 1990. Alabi’s World. Baltimore: The Johns Hopkins University Press.

Rafael, Vicente. 1988. Contracting Colonialism: Translation and Christian Conversion in Tagalog Society under Early Spanish Rule. Ithaca: Cornell University Press.

Sandoval, Mercedes Cros. 1979. “Santería as a Mental Health Care System: An Historical Overview” Social Science and Medicine 13b:137-151.

Scott, David. 1991. “That Event, This Memory: Notes on the Anthropology of African Diasporas in the New World” Diasporas 1:261-84.

Thompson, Robert Farris. 1983. Flash of the Spirit. New York: Random House.

Van der Veer, Peter (ed.). 1996. Conversion to Modernities: The Globalization of Christian Modernities. New York: Routledge.

(I thank my dear colleague Stephan Palmie for this kind and incisive review).

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

St. Christopher, Protector of Travelers and a Young Boy















Matthew rushed up and asked me to remove his sterling silver St. Christopher medal before our Saturday soccer game. As his coach I dutifully put it in my pocket. I forgot about it and after the game his mother emailed me asking if I still had it. Apologetically I had to reply that it was lost, presumably it fell out on the field, and I insisted that I pay for it.

"Absolutely not," she replied. "When you signed up for soccer coach it didn't include caretaker of the jewelry. We will keep looking and if turns up that is great. Otherwise I will hold off and get him another one in a few years. This is his 3rd in about 3 years."

I tried to let this one go, but couldn't:

"It's a bit of a disconnect that the medal of a saint who so loyally protects travelers and carries them across dangerous waters if necessary could be lost three times. Matthew's journey right now in his "tween" years is not an easy one. Perhaps this is a warning shot across the bow, so to speak, that next time around he should strive harder to put the chain in a special place so it will always be available when he needs it. I have a special relationship with an aspect of St. Christopher so I know how important it is."

Matt's mother declined to engage my response, but added more information:

"Actually, each time it hasn't been totally his fault. The 1st was lost over his head in the ocean after his grandfather told him it would be safe. (He's had his for 50 years.) The 2nd one was a cheap one and it broke. This time I forgot he couldn't wear it and wasn't thinking. Since he never takes it off, he wasn't thinking either."

Ah, this is such fertile ground. I desired so much to communicate what my spirit is telling me, but I'm his coach and I won't impose. So I'm writing here.

Imagine, his grandfather had his own for 50 years and was confident that the medal wouldn't be lost. As a mortal, he wasn't correct; it was lost. Small change notwithstanding. You know, many people have drowned in the ocean, but Matt lived to see another day. St. Christopher, protector of travelers, took the hit for him. Still, though his grandfather erred about the necklace, he was firm in his belief. After all, he had 50 years to show for it.

Last Saturday Matt "forgot"; he "wasn't thinking." And it was lost again, by the coach--the default protector of the protection, who "didn't...sign up" as "caretaker of the jewelry."

Did I or didn't I? How separate are the different hats I wear? What responsibilities do I bear? My son is on the team; aren't they "all my sons", as Arthur Miller famously wrote?

My son Manny seems to be in the same place. He forgets, he doesn't use his head, he loses everything. All of these affect everything he does, from home life to school to sports. He's eleven. I'm concerned to the point of desperation.

Matt's mother made a very wise point that I did not pick up on at first. If the medal doesn't turn up, she "will hold off and get him another one in a few years."

There's consolation for me in her patience and her confidence that Matt will eventually get it.

Sunday, March 15, 2009

Enmanuel Padron, watercolor drawing by Alan Brown, for Manny's birthday March 6, 2009

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Soccer and the Two Mannys, Chapter One

 
Two people named Manny have indelibly shaped my relationship to soccer specifically and sports in general. One is Emanuel F. Tramontana, now the Mathematics Department Chair at the Pingry School in New Jersey and the other is Enmanuel F. Padron, my step-son. Each has also indelibly shaped my life.

The day I entered The Pingry School for Boys, formerly of Hillside, New Jersey, I got to know Emanuel F. Tramontana, "Manny." He was my math teacher and it was not pretty. Manny was also one of two junior varsity soccer coaches. The other was the late Frank Romano. He was a nice man with a winning smile. He could fashion a withering gaze and could be scary as he ambled the halls, so he was known as "The Shark" by many students. The Shark was big and broad chested. Manny was a rail. They weren't funny like Jackie Gleason and Art Carney.

I hesitate to address the role of Manny Tramontana in my life because he is still alive and probably capable of filing suit for libel. So I'll attempt to stick to my feelings without going to such inflammatory terms as "abuse." However, I will say that Manny Tramontana nearly ruined my high school years single-handedly. In my mind's eye, his face greets me as if it were yesterday, though he started teaching me thirty five years ago in 1973. I should put "teaching" in quotation marks, because for me, his class was the Spanish Inquisition and he, Torquemada. Fortunately, I was his second fiddle in the humiliation business. The first was Stanley Mantel, a pitiable thin broken kid with bug eyes. Still, I can hear Manny yelling "Browwwwwwn! as loud as screeching tires. It seemed I couldn't do anything without being run down by that car. Thirty five years of psychotherapy have not erased those wounds.

Manny Tramontana is tall and wiry, intimidating, and, in retrospect, he had the most contemptuous, hateful sneer I have ever seen on the face of a human being. I never saw him smile, except in joke sessions with his academic colleagues. I still thank God for Stanley Mantel, a gumby-like sad sack. Stanley got it far worse than me. Still, it seems that without Stanley and me to pick on, Manny would have no way to survive the world, which probably had dealt him a bad hand. We all heard things but were never sure. One thing is for sure, he needed me; he needed someone to taunt and bully in order to exorcise his own terror--literally to rip it from his gut and paint it on our faces.

The worst was on the soccer field. This was the epoch in which teachers, with few exceptions, coached the teams. So the hand I was dealt on the field consisted of Manny and the Shark. They owned the Junior Varsity, along with their pet players. Miller Bugliari owned the Varsity, and they took no prisoners.

The first day of practice in September 1973 was cold. Manny, The Shark, and their minions stood in a circle near the sidelines. I lofted a good one and, like a mortar, it landed right in the middle of that circle, destroying in one nice explosion all of their coffee and doughnuts. "Browwwwwwn!" reverberated throughout much of Central Jersey and I spent the next two years on the bench except for the last four minutes of rainy games we were either winning by 100 or losing by a 100. My parents came to every game and spent a lot of time looking at the back of my jersey.

It was sad. I was a good soccer player in seventh, eighth, and ninth grade--"Junior High School"--under coach Barracaro. I scored goals like water from the faucet when I played every spring in Edison intramural soccer. So "playing" at Pingry was like watching the sport on television or looking at the dioramas in the Museum of Natural History, from the outside-in. But watch I did, and I learned that game in my head like a good hand of cards.

The only time I got to play was during practice scrimmages. I wasn't Ronaldinho but I was always first when we ran laps around the field. I had a pretty good foot, and did my job as right fullback alright. The thing was, what with all the splinters in my butt and "Browwwwwn!" in my ear I never felt good on the field and math class. I was an outsider.

Still, I can't blame feeling bad about myself all on Manny. That had a lot to do with being beaten up everyday from first grade in 1963 through eighth grade in 1972 by the neighborhood kids on Clive Hills Road in Edison. I was the last to get picked in all of our team sports, often left alone in the middle of some dirt field as teams formed on either side of me. Occasionally a sympathetic voice would ring out: "O.K., we'll take him. He only sucks at sports because he never went to Greylock summer camp. Of course, the physical beatings were outmatched by the verbal brutality of mean kids' mouths. I knew myself as "four-eyes," "brillo-head," "metal-mouth," and "class-A cock:: Ah, music to the ears; we lived on a street of poets. The only time I didn't get beaten up was when I was with Tommy Taylor, who was big, tough, and the son of carpenter who lived on the next street. We were all upper-middle class and all the kids were scared of working class folks, Italians, and Blacks back then.

Still, Manny was to me like the gratuitous but heavy gravy on an inedible roast. Just insult to injury. But how could anyone be so mean? He must have had some license from a Pingry secret society to destroy at least two kids a year and get away with it. Every day after school he must have logged his successes in tormenting those two poor kids in a little notebook, just in case one day he couldn't come up with something original; so he would consult his book for what had worked before. "Brown loved this before so he's going to love it again."

At the end of my sophmore year at Pingry, just about everyone but me went on to the varsity for their junior year. Apparently, Manny loved me so much that he kept me on the JV my junior year. Otherwise he'd have to find some other young mark to pick on. Imagine my humiliation when I had to sit on the bench junior year also and watch sophmores start and play the game I loved. My only redoubt was Mr. Weyler, the gentleman swim coach, who was able to coax me out of my post traumatic stress syndrome from fall soccer and put me in the 100 breaststroke in the winter. So when my mother came to watch every swim meet she actually got to see me compete. I excelled at breaststroke and freestyle, and even swam 200 yard medleys. Individual activities would dominate my attention up through the present: swimming, martial arts, cycling, and Yoga.

I remember feeling a bit sad that Frank Romano The Shark had died and feeling pretty amazed to hear that Manny Tramontana had been promoted to the head of the Mathematics Department. I didn't know what to do. Anyway, I was already well enough through Oberlin College and Yale Graduate school that I could hide the Manny syndrome under the tattered rug of my much enhanced self-worth. The funny thing is that in those thirty five years of therapy I could never talk about Manny Tramontana because I would get this choking feeling in my throat and nothing would come out. I'm  now 57 and, here, in this blog, is the first time I'm able to do it. I hope Manny Tramonatana doesn't go out bitter, lonely, and broke.

 
Look for a succeeding chapter entitled, "Soccer and The Two Mannys: Enmanuel Padron."

Monday, August 18, 2008

Manny became a Team Leader this Season: A Letter from Coach Joe




Manny,
I have to admit, at our first practice I thought I had a trouble maker on my team. I thought I had a kid who was talented but didn't want to listen to the coach. Then something happened: I talked to you and you listened and you acted like a real ballplayer.

Manny, there's a lot of ways to measure success. I watched you become a team leader this season. We both knew you could hit and field and pitch. I heard you talk to some of your teammates with encouraging words. I watched you coach third base and take charge. I watched you do so many little things that it takes to become a real ball player and not just someone who plays ball. You were a complete success this year. You played exceptionally well and you were an exceptional teammate!

I am very proud to have coached you this year. I know our last game did not go the way you wanted it to. I think you put a little too much pressure on yourself. You're very good, but not perfect. Certainly, you still have a little ways to go in being a team leader. Wearing a catcher's mitt in practice probably wasn't a good example to set. But I know teenagers who wouldn't have been able to do what you did this year in terms of helping your teammates and taking charge on the field.

Thanks for a great season!

I'll see you at the picnic when I get to give you your trophy!

Coach Joe

Friday, August 8, 2008

I Wished I Lived on a Nude Beach

I wish I lived on a nude beach.

A long time ago my favorite nude beaches were in Southampton, Martha’s Vineyard, and Corfu. Southampton, unfortunately, has turned into a crass playground of the arrivistes.

My favorite beach in the world and all my life is Gayhead Beach at the far western end of the island of Martha's Vineyard. It is known for its regal cliffs made of many layers of different colored clay.


Bathing in the clay was otherworldly.

Soon it was outlawed.

It was a memorable peak experience which can never be repeated, because since then, Martha's Vineyard, though it was always home to Jackie O and other famous people, became the St. Barts or Monaco of the U.S. celebrity set.

Way back then it was much more peaceful. In the 1950s great but down to earth artists used to have all night dance parties on their decks in Chilmark. It was cool and really peaceful. In the 1980s I could still ride my bike from Oak Bluffs to Gayhead, 20 miles uphill, and not see a car the whole way..

Still, Edgartown was for the preppies, Yale Men, and CEOs who cut loose by shedding their business suits for pink or lime great sport jackets and plaid pants. Hooah!

Gayhead was settled by Aquinnah Indians of the Wampanaug nation who still live there, and Gayhead was their town. Real "wampum," for money, and in the form of purple shells, could still be found, and you could still eat Sunday morning brunch at the "Aquinnah Shop" without having to wait on line.

One of my best friends had an eighteenth century farmhouse down in the woods in Gayhead and I was there every summer. The clapboard house with hardwood floors was surrounded by the majestic piled stone walls photographed by Aaron Siskind in the 1950s. I took my bicycle on the ferry and rode up island or else camp in the woods.

There were two movie theaters and two fine restaurants. In funky Oak Bluffs, there was an historical African American community, as well as, a jewel of a Methodist "campground" and tabernacle, around which dozens of tiny gingerbread houses painted all pastel colors sat.

Was it all a dream? Because now I’m not rich enough to stay there.

Thursday, August 7, 2008

A Brief Alternative Biographical Narrative

 
David H. Brown draws his daily inspiration from the Atlantic Ocean. He consists of approximately 60% water, 17% protein, 17% fat, and 6% other elements. He believes that if you have not read Dirty Havana Trilogy by Pedro Juan Gutiérrez, Love Thy Neighbor: A Story of War by Peter Maass, and Drama of the Gifted Child by Alice Miller, you can't be sure where you stand on most things. He earned his Ph.D. in American Studies at Yale University in 1989. In 1997, the delightful corporation called Emory University decided it didn't want him any more. He landed on his feet and eventually found retail again, a great but hitherto unfathomed inheritance of his Jewish ancestors from the Old Country.
 
In 2000 David became an asentado of orisha Obatalá-Ayáguna Leyibó in Havana, Cuba and began developing his ashé as a botaniquero and orisha artist. He is the author of two works of art history and cultural anthropology: Santería Enthroned: Art, Ritual, and Innovation in an Afro-Cuban Religion and “The Light Inside”: Abakuá Society Arts and Cuban Cultural History (2003). He is the owner of www.folkcuba.com. A forteen-year old named Enmanuel Padrón is the light of his life; plus he’s a ferocious high school basketball player.

Friday, July 18, 2008

Why you have to pray to Oluó Popó / El porque de rogarle a Oluó Popó




Porque hay que rogarle a San Lázaro cuando se va a trasladar de un lugar a otro.


Patakin

San Lázaro viva en la tierra Lucumi, pero la gente lo detestaba por la pestilencia de sus llagas y por el temor al contagio, y por ese motivo lo botaron de esa tierra. Cuando Oluó Popó iba por el camino se encontró con su hermano pequeño Shangó; quién lo saludó y le preguntó que cosa le sucedía, pues lo veía muy serio y preocupado; Oluó Popó le contó lo que la gente de su tierra le había hecho y Shangó entonces le dijo: “mira yo acabo de ganar una guerra y tengo un lugar para que reines y ese lugar es la tierra arará, que es una tierra pequeña y está dividida por un río de la tierra Lucumí.”

Oluó Popó aceptó y fueron para allá. Cuando llegaron Shangó le dijo a la gente: este hombre es quien los va a gobernar, quiéranlo mucho. Shangó antes de marcharse de allí le dijo a Oluó Popó, “esa gente que te botó, te van a necesitar, pero antes de ir hazte de rogar bastante.” Tiempo después se desató una gran epidemia en la tierra Lucumí y se estaba muriendo mucha gente y como no sabían que cosa hacer, estaban desesperados; pero en eso pasó Shangó y les dijo, “el único que los puede salvar es ese hombre leproso que ustedes botaron, tienen que buscarlo.” Enseguida fueron a la tierra Arará y le pidieron a Oluó Popó que los salvara, pero este se negó. Entonces todos se arrodillaron y empezaron a dar palmadas en el suelo rogándole a Oluó Popó que los salvara y le decían que no se levantarían de allí hasta que no los perdonara y fuera con ellos. Después de muchos ruegos y suplicas Oluó Popó se decidió a ir y curo a todos los enfermos; y así fue como Oluó Popó salvo de la epidemia a su tierra.


Why you have to pray (sing) to San Lázaro when you are going to move him from one place to another.


Patakin

San Lázaro lives in the Lucumí country but the people detested him because of the pestilence of his body sores and because of their fear of contagion they kicked him out of their territory. When Oluó Popó went on the road he met his younger brother Shangó, who greeted him and asked him what had happened, because Shangó saw him very grave and worried. Oluó Popó related what the people of his country had done to him and Shangó replied, “look, a just won a war and I have a place where you can reign and this place is the Arará country. It’s a small territory and it’s separated from the Lucumí country by a river.

Oluó Popó accepted and went on his way there. When he arrived Shangó told the people, “this man is going to govern you. You must love him.” Before leaving, Shangó told Oluó Popó, “the people who kicked you out are going to need you, but before going back there make sure you pray well. A while later a great epidemic spread through the Lucumí country and many people were dying, and as they didn’t know what to do they were desperate. While they were in this state Shangó passed through and told them, “the only one who can save you is that leper who you threw out. You have to call him back.” Immediately they went to the Arará country and begged Oluó Popó to save them, but he denied their pleas. Therefore they got on their knees and began to pound the ground with their palms, praying to Oluó Popó that he save them, and that they would not get up until he forgave them and went with them. After so much supplication and prayer Oluó Popó decided to go and cure all of the sick; and thusly it was that Oluó saved them from the epidemic in their country.

Saturday, July 12, 2008

Jekua Jei Oyá Yansán Iyá ni Mí: How Hilario Dávila Made Osha in Cuba I



Hilario Dávila didn't know much about Oyá for nine years. That is how much time passed between the day Orunmila marked the owner of his head as Obatalá and later when he they made kariocha to him. Orunmila had told him that he was a romantic and that he would always have trouble brought on by women.
Hilario Dávila knew that Oyá was omnipresent in the world, like the wind, storms, change, the determination of warriors, and their impassive silence in the face of death. Hilario Dávila had no idea what Oyá had in store for him.

Almost every day they said to him, "oh, your mother is going to be
Oshún"; "oh, your mother is going to be Yemayá." They never thought of Oyá and neither did Hilario Dávila, except in passing. He knew that she was supposed to stand at the gate of the cemetery and receive the corpse from the death cart of Babalú-Ayé.
Hilario Dávila's madrina, Odomiguale (ibae) was a daughter of Yemayá and she was always a bit scared of Oyá.


Many years ago, when I was young, I asked a lot of questions. I was known for that. I never understood why Yemayá and Oyá didn't get along. But the babalawos never gave me an answer. So one day I went outside and I talked to the sun. I asked the sun why Yemayá and Oyá didn't get along. And he asked me to look at the sea and observe what happens when the wind passes over it. Along come storms.


Odomiguale taught
Hilario Dávila that the orishas were powers of the cosmos manifested in nature. Later Hilario Dávila would learn that the wind can just as quickly decide to stop. And when Oyá decides to stop, just standing there arms akimbo with that look your grandmother used to shoot at you, she can just make people stop dead in their tracks, perk up, and listen to save their lives.
Orunmila had told Hilario Dávila that he had to make osha. But he had so many things to learn and write and finish and do that he just couldn't wrap his mind around it. Indeed, one day a white haired babalawo told him that, as a child of Obatalá with the odu that came out in his awofaka, there might be many times when he'd have so many things in his head that he just wouldn't know what to do.
Hilario Dávila's godfather was going to lead him down the garden path. It also happened that his godfather lived the odu Otura Sá. Little by little Hilario Dávila got a taste of Otura Sá, but he still didn't know that Otura Sá is the path of delinquency. Otura Sá plays fast and loose with the truth; Otura Sá doesn't fulfill what he promises and he's careless with everything he has. Otura Sá is an Ifá of witchcraft. Because of his ambitious self-interest, Otura Sá even tries to make Babá Eyiogbe, who is the highest, second to himself. Otura Sá abuses his friends and betrays them. Babalawos say that Otura Sá is the Prince of the Delinquents. He has many enemies, but his worst enemy is in his own house.

Oy
á is a principal resource and savior of Otura Sá. He dreams of her and, though there is "something grand" in the sky, he does not see it because of his earthly ambition and vida despreocupada. Effectively, he remains blind to the "grand thing" that is bigger than himself. "Only through me," she might say, "you can see the truth"; but Oyá is not easy. She shows the truth to those who demonstrate to her that they want to see it.

When Hilario
Dávila worked in construction during college summers, the union linemen always told him, "Hilario is really intelligent, but boy is he dumb." Later, what with Isaac Delgado's incessant timba in the air, the lights, action, and girls on the Malecón , the emotional heat of the pueblo, and the magnetism of the santo, Hilario Dávila was irretrievably "caught up" in the island, as Prisma magazine described him in a profile article. Eduardo Desnoes put it best: Cuba made me so.

Still, Hilario Dávila had his doubts about making osha in the house of Otura Sá. It was a mess. Otura Sá couldn't seem to hold onto money and he was always looking for ways to get it, whether begged, borrowed, or stolen. Otura Sá had adopted all of Odomiguale's children and they had only one son together. All the sons made Ifá and the only daughter made Obatalá. Otura Sá always stole toys from his adopted son Beto and gave them as presents to his first and only born son, Augustin. Beto Osa Kana (ibae) had to find his own way because Otura Sá was his constant frustration. Miguel Angel Oyekun Biroso (ibae) drowned in the ocean in Panama. Gacho became a walking skeleton and beggar. The daughter of Obatalá went crazy. The only son-by-blood became a drunken monster and turned the house into a cave. He became obese, ambled like a gorilla, spent years in Mazorra, the nut house by the airport, chopped up an old lady with a machetazo, and sold his father's Ifá books for a liter of chispa de tren, a toxic rum made from gasoline. Whether by ego, denial, or genuine concern, Otura Sá never stopped trying to cure the monster, who had become a lost cause. Tragically, he was never to recognize the enemy in his own house. Odomiguale, the woman who found life's answers by talking to the sun, suffered every day for more than forty years. Eventually, after too many golpes, she just stopped eating, died, and returned to the sea, where Hilario Dávila goes to ask for her bendicion. Like a broken record, it was said that many of their misfortunes were caused by the powerful babalawo and brujo Oshé Yekú, a godchild of Bernardo Rojas Irete Untedí who, they believed, had done witchcraft to them thirty eight years earlier over a painful shift in alliances prior to Otura Sá's initiation.

For all these reasons and more--were more required?--many people told
Hilario Dávila not to make osha in the house of Otura Sá. But Hilario Dávila was a cabezón. Besides, it couldn't be all that bad. Many of his brothers and sisters in osha were the cream of Havana professional society: they were successful doctors, lawyers, filmmakers, journalists, painters, and intellectuals. His Oyubona of Ifá, Beto Osa Kana, was the King of Cayo Hueso and Vedado. Otura Sá even read Ifá first for Noriega in Panama and then for Hugo Chavez in Venezuela, although after Augustin destroyed an entire hotel lobby in Caracas they were all kicked out of the country. In a twist of fate, everything he prophesied to Chávez turned out to be wrong and only a last minute intervention by a political godfather higher up the state food chain saved him from Fidel's wrath.

After nine years of waiting, when
Hilario Dávila told Otura Sá and Odomiguale that he was ready to make osha, they were very excited and almost started dancing. Otura Sá was pretty relieved because he just got through dispatching another godchild, the painter, from the house. They never really got along anyway because the painter had so much success and money, which he flaunted, and Otura Sá had it on good authority, or, at least, embraced a story that seemed to work for him: the painter was a homosexual. Babalawos, of course, can't make Ifá to gay people. Now he could relax knowing that he could later make Ifá to Hilario Dávila, which would be a pretty big coup in Havana, since Hilario Dávila would be his first Ifá godchild from the Yuma and he'd be able to visit the United States.


Hilario Dávila had to supply every last item for his osha, down to the plastic pails, palm oil, and powder paint, since his madrina had nothing in the house except one old frying pan, because the monster would sell it for alcohol. Hilario Dávila's two conditions to his godparents were that they rent a house to make his osha because the itá of his awofaka warned him against being around drunks or violence. Hilario Dávila couldn't bear the thought of making osha in the house where the monster prowled. His second condition was that he would bring his Oyubona from the Yuma, Ocan Oñí. It was pretty atrevido for the future iyawó to be setting conditions. Still, Odomiguale signed off on the plan. She met with Hilario Dávila and Ocan Oñí just before dusk as the warm western sun poured through the floor to ceiling high shutters. Ocan Oñí would take care of the room and she would give her ashé to Hilario Dávila. Sounded pretty good. Hilario Dávila put $1100. on the floor in front of Yemayá, asked for her blessing, and then Otura Sá asked Odomiguale for some of it. Odomiguale snapped it up, stuck it in her apron, and shot back, "I might be old but I'm not stupid." She gave him just enough to take Hilario Dávila over to rent the house on Calle Salud, between Oquendo and Marqués González. Everybody loved this house, because it had a huge sala for drummings, a spacious cuarto de santo, an outdoor kitchen. The beautiful mulata María Oshún lived there with her daughter and her father, Lázaro, a babalawo. Far enough away from the precinct of the monster, the house seemed ideal. Wouldn't you know that the babalawo was a violent drunk who regularly raised escándolos and beat his family.

The next day Hilario
Dávila, Ocan Oñí, and Tony Irosun Sá, Hilario's good friend, went to the beach at Mariel to collect otá for the santo, a beach known for it's beautiful stones. The wind was alive and the water was bracing. Medium white stones for Obatalá and smaller yellowish stones for Oshún. There was not a black stone to be found in all of Mariel for Shangó and Yemayá and, as luck would have it, Hilario Dávila had brought black otá from botanica El Congo Real in New York City. What to do about Oyá. "Do you want brown stones for Oyá," Ocan Oñí asked, "or do you like these unusual otá?" They were gray with white stripes. They had a presence. Something about them said Oyá and Obatalá together. Hilario Dávila liked them.


The tied up bags of stones filled half of the backseat of Tony
Irosun Sá's twenty year old Russian Moskvich whose secrets only the babalawo knew. Tony took them to Ocan Oñí's apartment and left them to sort the stones out by divination. Only those otá appropriate to Hilario Dávila's santo could be used. Irosun Sá, ever the politically-savvy babalawo knew that he couldn't be seen to have any meddling hand in the preparations for the ceremonies, or he might raise envy and distrust among the in-group of the house. It was controversial enough that Hilario Dávila had introduced Ocan Oñí into the game, since he was a relatively unknown quantity to Odomiguale and Otura Sá. Anyone present who was not screened through repeat invitations to work could mean conflict of method, misinterpretation, or criticism of errors made in the ceremonies. Everybody knew stories like that of Oshé Yekú and Otura Sá.

Rock the boat or make waves. The first storm signal brewed when
Hilario Dávila and Ocan Oñí proudly brought the selected otá to Odomiguale. Her permissive one-point plan for Ocan Oñí to "do the room" and for her to "deliver the ashé" hadn't lasted the night. Perhaps she was right. "You have to select the otá on the floor right in front of my Yemayá! How else is she going to know what's happening?" Hilario Dávila and Ocan Oñí, like well-behaved sailors, professed nothing but fair intentions to the wrathful sea. In compromise, Odomiguale permitted them to interrogate each bundle of selected otá before Yemayá. Oyá was the sole orisha who gave ocana to her otá, but she came around when offered epó. The wind had made waves over the already agitated ocean. "You have to interpret that ocana," Odomiguale said darkly.

Tony
Irosun Sá was a credentialed merchant marine and ship's captain by vocation. Supertankers and sea-mining ships were his stock-in-trade. He'd braved unspeakable storms, but Yemaya-Achabá was a formidable squall. His role in the stone scandal was more serious. Hilario Dávila and Ocan Oñí were just santeros. Irosun Sá was a babalawo, the godson of Osa Kana and the Ifá-grandson of Otura Sá. Shouldn't he know better than to meddle? Was he trying to control the santo and steal Hilario Dávila as his own ward? The child of Irosun Sá knows that he is set upon by enemies from all sides and must seek his tranquility. A consummate diplomat, Irosun Sá assured Odomiguale that she had replaced the mother he had lost early on in his life. It was far beyond him to meddle where he did not belong.



Hilario Dávila and Ocan Oñí spent the afternoon pacing the ornate tile floor in the house of santo on Calle Salud waiting for Otura Sá to begin the ebo de entrada. Finally, Orunmila was ready to clean Hilario Dávila and open the way before Hilario Dávila would "go to the river" to be bathed by Oshún on the eve of the santo. Summoned from the kitchen to the igbodún, Hilario Dávila felt real trepidation for the first time. Hilario Dávila gingerly stuck his head through the door way. There was Otura Sá on the mat with the round tablero de Ifa between his legs. And there was the monster sitting quietly on a stool next to his father. Hilario Dávila fairly jumped back. "I can't go into the room. Coño, padrino, you know why we rented this house." Hilario Dávila just couldn't. Otura Sá, trying to take control, assured Hilario Dávila that the monster was tranquilo. But Hilario Dávila just couldn't. They backed away from the door into the pasillo. Always the supportive one, Ocan Oñí said that he didn't have to go in if he didn't want to. He didn't. Otura Sá promptly got up from the mat, shook his head, and left. Me piro. Que Antonio Irosun Sá lo haga (I'm gone; let Tony do it). Eleguá saw everything right there in the door way. As he would later say it best in Oshé Bara, the drunk thinks one thing and the bartender thinks another. More to the point, a difficult child is like a thorny forest.
The sun was already beginning to drop.
Oshún was waiting at the river and there was so much to do to prepare the igbodún for the santo. Oshún Ibú-Ikolé is renowned for her uncanny ability to make and mend connections. Ocan Oñí fairly flew the five blocks to the house of Otura Sá. After a tense hour a creaky blue Lada pulled up carrying Odomiguale, Otura Sá, and Ocan Oñí. Oshún had restarted the santo. Emerging triumphantly from the back seat, Ocan Oñí escorted Hilario Dávila's padrinos into the house; "God, do I have a fuckload of ashé." Hilario Dávila couldn't disagree.


Otura Sá sat back down on the mat to perform the ebó de entrada. He'd relented before Ocan Oñí's diplomatic entreaties, explaining laconically, me incomodé. He probably also realized that it wasn't worth losing a series of opportunities over a small flap if it could be fixed. At the end of the ceremony, Otura Sá had Hilario Dávila holding a huge, nearly unmanageable load of birds. Tony Irosun Sá and Ocan Oñí had never seen so many big birds for a sign that had come with iré. Funny that all of these lovely birds would end up in cages at Otura Sá's house, ready to be used for another person's ceremony over the weekend, instead of being set free as was the custom.
It was way after dark when they took Hilario Dávila to the river in Reparto Mañana in Guanabacoa and then he spent his first night on an old mat in the house of santo. Early the next morning at sunrise Hilario Dávila, to his delight, Lazaro the babalawo offered him coffee. Lazaro loved coffee, especially, as Hilario Dávila would find out later, when his rent-out kitchen was liberally stocked with the iyawó's provisions for the week.

Fortunately for
Hilario Dávila, Ocan Oñí brought in his trusted second, Raquel Obákedún, an elder santera from Guanabacoa, to attend to the iyawó for the week. Obákedún was an angel from heaven. Immediately Obákedún reorganized the iyawó's wicker basket of white clothes, selecting just two or three sets of whites and sending the rest home. In her experience, the initiation of a Yuma always meant that just about everything was open to pilfering, as if the room were a department store on a prizewinning free shopping day. Funny how even Otura Sá liberated spaghetti and sauce from the kitchen as take out for the insatiable monster at home. During the Middle Day of the santo, when everyone comes to celebrate the new iyawó, most of the fresh meat from the animals magically disappeared from the kitchen so that Hilario Dávila's long-lost family could be fed.
Hilario Dávila spent a long time sitting in a stiff chair facing the wall by the front door of the house. He was supposed to be quiet. It seemed like hours. Then Otura Sá and Odomiguale made a grand entrance and showed everyone the present they had brought for the santo, six big terracotta bowls for the osains, because the ones in the house were old and moldy. Then, for some reason, Otura Sá started pestering Ocan Oñí to reimburse him for the six fula that he spent on the bowls. Obatalá was going to be made, but somehow the six fula became a major drama of the santo, which would reach it's climax during the matanza.

For Hilario Dávila, the santo went on a long time, blindfolded as he was. Fortunately, the Obá was an affable, gentle man named "El Curro," Pablo Fresneda and his presence, along with Ocan Oñí, Obákedún, and Tony Irosun Sá, gave Hilario Dávila confidence.

Being blindfolded while people are doing all kinds of things to you is not easy and it was really hard for
Hilario Dávila to remember everything that happened. He got all wet, heard lots of voices, and felt his head stinging. The rest was pretty much a blur, except when it was time for the ceremony that the babalawos always told him was an important moment in the santo: the "presentation of the razor" to the iyawó's head.

Since this was a house of
Ifá, it is Orunmila who opens the iyawó's way to the osha. The babalawo is his first and most important godparent, which is symbolized by his Eshú, with the green and yellow beads incrusted in the little cement head and the "hand of Orula," received by the iyawó prior to the santo. The presentation of the razor symbolizes the transfer of the iyawó's head from the babalawo to the madrina of santo, who puts her ashé on his head during the kariocha.

The people
seemed to stop what they were doing and the Obá asked for the babalawo to come and present the razor. Nothing seemed to happen. They called him again. This went on for a long time. Then Hilario Dávila heard someone say, "he's not here. I guess we'll just keep doing what we were doing." So much for tradition thought Hilario Dávila in the haze of the moment.



After a really long time of beautiful hypnotic chanting, they started putting all this stuff on
Hilario Dávila's head and a lot of people whispered really sweet things in his ear. Then Hilario Dávila felt like he was floating and a big bell started clanging in front of him. All kinds of bodies were around him and it was pretty hot. For a while he didn't know where he was and he felt like his body was moving on its own. Suddenly the singing stopped and they told Hilario Dávila that he could open his eyes. Sitting on the wood mortar he could see the throne of beautiful white cloth decorated with four colorful paños. They told Hilario Dávila that this was "his new house." They helped him up from the mortar and walked him over to his house and turned him around so he could see everyone smiling at him. It was a relief and a revelation but it had all taken so long and since he had gone away for a little while, Hilario Dávila was now back and couldn't stand up very well.
Otura Sá was the first person to come up to him. To Hilario Dávila, he seemed really short and he had a half-burned cigarette hanging out of his mouth with the ashes falling on the mat. "I need you to give me six dollars." Hilario Dávila had no idea what he was talking about. Otura Sá came back looking a bit crestfallen and he told the new iyawó that, because Obatalá had come during the santo, he wasn't going to pass to Ifá. Otura Sá then brightened up and told Hilario Dávila that they would, however, wash his hands in añá so he could become a drummer and sooner or later he would need to receive Odudúwa from the babalawos because he had made Obatalá. Otura Sá then walked away and made that unmistakable gesture of dusting off his hands--well, so much for making Ifá to Hilario Dávila--and left the room.



Later, Hilario Dávila chewed and chewed a series of square coconut pieces each seasoned with little grains of African pepper as sets of orishas was fed in the matanza. Just as cool water balanced hot blood, cool coconut balanced hot pepper. In theory. Hilario Dávila was always told that the room "heated up" during the matanza de santo; the air could be so electric that people would be montado por el santo. He was surprised when it heated up in a way he hadn't predicted, but, in retrospect, it was inevitable that things would come to a head.
Otura Sá had brought his inexperienced godson Cesar with him to help with the matanza, instead of using his experienced Ifá-grandson, Tony Irosun Sá, because the house had already branded him a traitor. Cesar strutted about confidently with his big knife strapped to his calf like a scuba-diver and demonstrated with gusto how effortlessly he could flop over and hold the chivito of Eleguá. It was also Cesar's job to pull the animals from their pens in the kitchen. Unfortunately, as it turned out, Cesar was either distracted by his self-importance or hadn't studied closely enough the sex traits of animals. When it came time to feed Oyá her auré, Cesar brought out an aunkó instead. Otura Sá was evidently a bit distracted himself. Not long into the eyebale, Ocan Oñí and others remarked that Oyá was receiving the wrong offering. Otura Sá took note, had Oyá washed, and then he re-fed Oyá her auré and Obatalá his.



Now
Otura Sá had a little problem on his hands. With one aunkó wasted, he would be one short when it came to feeding Oshún and Agayú--as each required its own four-legged offering of aunkó. Likely, given his money worries, the need to cover his embarrassment, and because Otura Sá is despreocupado, he tried an utterly pathetic and transparent sleight of hand. Otura Sá pushed Oyá and Obatalá back against the wall and pulled out Oshún and Agayú, who eat together, making sure that the spent lerí auré lined up right in front of Oshún--presenting a little make-believe that she had already received her offering. Hilario Dávila saw all this but remained speechless.

And everyone saw it; but for a moment, no one said anything.
Otura Sá proceeded as if nothing had happened. Ocan Oñí pretty much had enough. He later told Hilario Dávila that he left the room to consult with the elder santera Raquel Obákedún. She probably had forty years in osha and had worked at a thousand santos. But she earlier split to the living room because a younger santera disrespected her in front of everyone. Ocan Oñí vetted his position with her: he was the Oyubona and had responsibility for the quality of the ceremony and the life of the iyawó, not least because Odomiguale was seventy years old and was oblivious to the proceedings. She sat in her chair of honor in the corner of the igbodún. Hilario Dávila saw Ocan Oñí, the santero of eight years, reenter the room to confront a babalawo of thirty-eight years in Ifá.

Oshún can be diplomatic and she can be fierce. Gently,
Ocan Oñí explained to Otura Sá that the lost aunkó created a problem for Hilario Dávila's sister-in-Ocha, Gisella, who was receiving Agayú during the ceremony. Ocan Oñí then explained that because there remained only one aunkó, and neither Oshún nor Agayú had been fed, one or the other would not be able to speak in the itá on Monday. Coño, padrino, ya tú sabes, analiza, Oshún lleva su propio chivo y para hablar tiene que comer. Still, the problem was even bigger, reminding the very babalawo who performed the ebó de entrada of the odú's signal warning: hay muchos vicios pero una sola virtud. Correctness was paramount and at the heart of this santo.
Hilario Dávila saw that Otura Sá was disarmed, but, like a bruised fighting rooster, was still poised to raise his spur. For a minute the room was frozen in time. No one moved. Then Ocan Oñí broke the spell. Oshún was no longer the diplomat, but the candela brava. Ocan Oñí swooped down and slid the lerí auré across the floor and out the door like a ski-ball leaving a thick trail of ejé. To Hilario Dávila, the already diminutive Otura Sá got a bit smaller.
People got together in the middle of the room. They decided that Tony Irosun Sá would go out and buy another aunkó. Hilario Dávila had no money and he knew that Ocan Oñí was the only soul in the room and probably in all of Cayo Hueso at the moment capable of paying for an aunkó on the spot. Tony Irosun Sá took the seventeen fula and was back before Otura Sá could say chivo capón.

When
Oyá's auré was opened and presented to her, all could that see she had been pregnant with ibeyi. Hilario Dávila watched with wonder the still-breathing placenta on a large plate and two chivitos cuddling each other inside. He thought: luck. Otura Sá tried to get his six dollars from Ocan Oñí again. By this time, Ocan Oñí really had Otura Sá's number. He calmly replied, "padrino, I'm sure you realize that you actually owe me eleven dollars if you subtract the cost of the bowls from the seventeen I spent on the aunkó." No luck. Otura Sá never raised the subject again.
See Part II: